Explore The Kitchen
The Week – Daily Telegraph
Summary of review September 2014
‘Hendy’s sheer eccentricity is utterly winning – and the food sublime’
‘Hendy’s is intriguing’, says Casilda Grigg in The Daily Telegraph – ‘part museum of Georgian domesticity, part curiosity shop, part restaurant.’
Food photographer and chef Alastair Hendy spent three years restoring the building to a state of ‘austere antiquarian beauty’ that’s hard to resist. And the cooking – served in a ‘creaky dining parlour’ that’s been lit to make it look like a Caravaggio painting – is as successful.
The menu, which changes every day, is ‘brief, seasonal and fishy.’ Beetroot, apple and mint soup is the ‘best borscht I’ve ever tasted – thick and gorgeous and delicately spiced.’ Haddock chowder is ‘magically creamy and comforting.’ And a fish and crab pot featured a rich bouillabaisse and ‘succulent morsels’ of crabmeat. Hendy’s sheer ‘eccentricity’ is utterly winning – and the food ‘sublime.’
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